Sunday 14 June 2020

Mt Brown and Crescent Beach

A Magical Southern Tasmania Winter's Day


With travel restrictions eased we thought it was about time we had a visit to the Tasman Peninsula. We hadn't been to Crescent Bay and Mt Brown for quite a while so opted to head down that way and have a look at the upgrades to the track.

The forecast suggested there should be no rain until sometime in the late afternoon so we were somewhat surprised and disappointed driving through Forestier Peninsula to see wet road and a fine mist in the air. Thinking we were likely to get a little wet whatever time we started we decided to detour to Cubed Coffee at Pirates Bay Lookout. Here's what it looked like in the direction we were headed ...


A little grey but we were heartened that no precipitation was actually falling on us as we waited for refreshments. Excellent coffee and better chocolate chip cookies than you're likely to buy anywhere else in Tasmania.

The sky gradually lightened as we continued southward. By the time we arrived at Remarkable Cave where the track starts it looked a little more promising. Before we headed to the start of the walk proper I took this photo of Cape Pillar in case the clouds closed in and obscured the views later ...


As well as track upgrading there is a new sign ...



We were soon impressed with the quality of the track work and an occasional special touch added to our delight ...


... and here a wonderful use of large slabs of rock span a boggy drainage ...


Just a short way into the walk the colouring along the track and the coast behind warranted a photo stop ...


And did you notice the trace of blue in the sky at the top of the picture? Things are definitely looking up.

Something I especially like about living on our temperate island is that there is always something in flower at lower altitudes. The Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos like that as well as they can always nibble on the banksia marginata along the coastline ...



The next notable sight along the way is the Maingon Blowhole which is about 150 metres from the coast at the end of a long narrow slot. Because there was no swell to speak of today the blowhole wasn't working but maybe you can imagine the spray coming up out of this chasm when it is ...



Along with the great upgrading to the track generally there has been a significant amount of re-routing. This is one place where that has happened, with the track running over a substantial new bridge that is a little closer to the shore, which is where I took this photo. I think the spray would be quite substantial right at this spot when the swell is pumping.

This hike is a real beauty, traversing coastal heath as it does and has been much improved with the significant re-routing taking walkers more consistently close to the water's edge. The fabulous surface  ...


... appears to be have made it a popular runners route now with a number of them coming back from the end as we were making our way out.

Here is another splash of heath colour ...



As the route nears Mt Brown it bends slightly left towards Crescent Bay and passes this little coastal crag which has been named "The Paradiso" by the climbing community ...



There are a number of excellent sport climbs on this crag, the longer of them stretching up to 35 metres in height. The serious action is off the end of Mt Brown, with routes up to 200 metres long and abseiling in is the only option. Tasmania in general has become quite popular with climbers from around the world and the Tasman Peninsula is something of a hotspot. This video shows a visiting couple out for an adventure.

Just after we passed The Paradiso the sun started to break through. Looking over my shoulder I saw Cape Raoul gleaming and tried to get a closer look. The iPhone wasn't quite up to the task for maximum definition but I thought it was worth including anyway ...

Cape Raoul in sun

Both Cape Raoul and Cape Pillar were used for extensive target practise by the Australian Navy in less enlightened times. How impressive would this cliff line be if it hadn't had the crap blown out if it?

It was a short walk to the fork detour to Mt Brown ...


... and as we ascended great views started to emerge down to Crescent Bay ...



... and towards Tasman Island ...



Unlike the main track to Crescent Bay the route up Mount Brown is unimproved, traversing dolerite slabs and tracking its way through low scrub. It is marked by small rock cairns and there is a larger cairn a few hundred metres before the top of the hill ...


... but a trig station marks the actual summit ...



Retracing our our steps to the main track and turned left down the the bay and its wonderful beach where a couple of kayaks rested on the sand ...


The paddlers were in having a skinny-dip which may have inspired Di as she decided to do the same a little further along the beach. With my cast still on I didn't feel like wandering around with a soaking wet arm for the rest of the day so I strolled down the beach a little further where I stopped for this irresistible shot ...


Coming back along the beach I saw the image I really came for ...


Decades ago in a different life  I brought students to this beach and they had loads of fun climbing up this dune and another behind me and running and tumbling back down again.

From here it was just a matter of retracing our steps back to the start of the track. I'm already looking forward to repeating the journey when I've got my cast off so I can get into the briny for a swim in my birthday suit! 😉

It's almost exactly 100 kms from Hobart to the start of the walk. Here is a look at where the track itself goes if you walk to the top of Mt Brown and then down to Crescent Bay before returning to the parking lot at Remarkable Cave ...



This is just one of a handful of brilliant day walks down on the Tasman Peninsula and probably the easiest one of the lot, especially if you eschew the ascent of Mt Brown and just go to Crescent Beach.
Get out amongst it!

PS: Although most days I'd rather be riding my bike somewhere, this was one of those days out with my darling that I wouldn't change for anything.

Tuesday 9 June 2020

Meyne Wyatt Tells It Like It Is

The Black Lives Matter protests worldwide have sparked a re-examination here in Australia of race relations, with the microscope well and truly on black deaths in custody. Since the Royal Commission in 1991, at least 437 Aborigines have died in custody.

Last night on Q&A - which is on the ABC - our national treasure. Q&A is the premier media vehicle in this country for examining important issues. Last night it explored race relations in Australia.

The program finished with a powerful monologue from actor Meyne Wyatt. It is compelling viewing: